Archive for November, 2009

Jeep Bus Jeep

Sunday, November 29th, 2009
Jeep boat jeep to Volcan Arenal

Jeep boat jeep to Volcan Arenal

Just like the title says, that´s what we did to get from Monteverde to La Fortuna.   Some exquisite countryside views along the way.   There was one bumpy potholed jaggedy road to the boat. Then we crossed Lake Arenal on a lovely boat ride.   Got a decent view of the volcano but the top portion was covered in clouds.   As soon as we stepped off the boat, I don´t know if it was all the magma or what, but the temp went up by 30 degrees and 300 percent humidity.   Adios pantalones!   Hello, beachwear.

We took a Jeep as our final leg into town and grabbed a room at Hotel Jireh.   In the off season, the hotel rooms were $30 (pretty much the same as a hostel any more here…)  balcony, AC, pool, tv, all the amenities.   Booked a tour to Nature Hike, Baldi Hot Springs soak and Volcano viewing.   Jose our guide was super Americanized, with a tattoo of the Notre Dame fighting Irishman and listened religiously to Bon Jovi.   The jungle hike was cool, saw toucans and wild turkeys, gold pendalans  (orielle bird), leaf cutter ants, rubber trees…   When it started to get dark, we drove to the Lake Side of the Volcano to the lava ¨observatory¨ which was really just some riverside rocks.   If the clouds lifted enough, we would see the red lava spew.   This was the 1st quasi clear night in 22 days.   No lava, however.

Volcan Arenal

Volcan Arenal

Fountain Catedral and Volcan

Fountain Catedral and Volcan

Then we were dropped at Baldi Hot Springs, not the most commercial of the spring, but not the least either.   There were at least 6 big hot water pools and several smaller, all from 90 degrees to 152 degrees.   Complete with decorative rocks, waterfalls and tropical jardins.   At the top pool, there were three waterslides.   Despite Olison´s warning, I don´t think anything could have prepared up for the Slide of Death.  There were no Slide At Your Own Risk warnings, the top left one was a doosey.   22 and I raced the 1st time, me right, him left.  Let´s just say that by the time I got to the bottom of min, he stood there like he´d been waitin gfor an hour bored out of his head. ¨Don´t tell me, I don´t want to know.   Let´s go back up.¨   And we switched slides.    I jumped in and pushed off with a whoosh.   I got chewed up and spit out recklessly.   Appendages in all directions.  My life flashed in front of my eyes before I even knew what happened.   Then I waited, waited, for an eternity.   Finally, out comes 22.   Laughing out of control with that I-get-it-now look, we went inside for an all you can eat buffet with some German and Seattle friends and back out to soak some more.    Sleep came fast.   The next day we walked the strip, the Parque Central and some artists galleries.  Lunch at the  Gourmet  Gecko.    Nothing too exciting but nice to have no agenda in this town where I know that the footprints of my once-familiar alter ego JT strolled.   If walking together, I would treat you to a sangria or three at the Lava Lounge.    We booked the Greay  Bus to Tamarindo in the am.   Next stop.  December and the Costa Rica Pacific Coast.

Baldi Hot Springs mascot

Baldi Hot Springs mascot

Mono y Mono

Saturday, November 28th, 2009

Bussed up to the Santa Elena Cloud Forest to do some hiking.   Saw dozens of hummingbirds and yellow bellied warblers.

Yellow bellied warbler

Yellow bellied warbler

Hummingbird

Hummingbird

Canopy bridge tour

Canopy bridge tour

After Oli peeled off, we saw a handful of spider monkeys swinging nonchalantly thru the treetops.   We walked the Selvatura Canopy bridges.  9 cable suspension bridges thru the trees so to get a better look at the critters up high.   No critters tho.   A great walk regardless.   Lots to do, but every little thing cost mucho colones so we have to start being a little selective.   Casados favorito es arroz y frijoles con pollo.   Y helado postre.  Plenty of it to go around.   Nabbed the cards adn rum and played a few more games.   Said adios to Oli, who is heading back to the states via San Jose and tomorrow we set sail for La Fortuna and Volcan Arenal.

Extreme Superman

Saturday, November 28th, 2009
Extreme Zipline

Extreme Zipline

Woke up early for another thrill packed day.   To the Extreme Canopy.   Ziplines hundreds of feet over the Cloud Forest.  Some 500 plus feet long.  Some ridiculously fast.   A great way to get the adrenaline pumping before you´ve even had the am cafe.  There was a canyon swing with a decent freefall that made each and every person squeel like a woman.  The last zip was superman style to they reverse your harness and hand from your back, arms out to the side.   You could see all the way to the Pacific coast.   22 and I got to ride double on one.
Olison Superman

Olison Superman

That night, we took a guided walk thru the jungle, which was way sweet.  I highly recommend this guided tour.   Probably the best thing so far for the value.  Our guide, Bernall, was a Biology Naturalist and the sole key to locating and showing off all creatures of the jungle that we would not have otherwise seen.
Tarantula

Tarantula

I guess that you see 70 percent more wildlife in the nighttime.   He identified trees, mantis´, birds (the Mot Mot), sloths, marching leaf ants, crazy big moths, tarantulas and even a pit viper!   The viper was 9 times smaller than my worst fears and was wrapped peacefully on a tree branch.  You´re not supposed to take flash snaps of them as it ruins the coating on their eyes.   It wasn´t nuerotoxinous, but still highly venomous.   A cool neon green color.   We got to taste coffee beans in the raw and watch banana trees unfurl before our eyes.
Real cool stuff.  Pura vida indeed.   Threw back some ceviche in town and hit a bottle of Limon while playing some gin-rummy.   Slept way better in a private room that night, decked out in mango wood on all side, breezes blowing thru the palms right outside our window.
Leaf Cutter Ants

Leaf Cutter Ants

Leaf bug

Leaf bug

Banana tree in Monteverde

Banana tree in Monteverde

Turkey Day Equals Arroz con Pollo

Friday, November 27th, 2009
We broke the first two rules of foreign travel.
One- Be early to where you´re going and plan extra time.
Two- Know exactly where you´re going.  Even if you´ve been there only 12 hours before.
We missed our bus by one simple Avenida and 15 minutes. Piss.   No 6 am go-time for us.   2:30 now.   And 8 more hours in this stinky city.   We visited the Museo Nacional to kill time after a muy delicioso capacchino y postre.   The creme-filled anythings and the empanadas are superb.     We strolled and people watched and waited.   There was a concerto in the biz district where people walk freely with very big guns.   Made it back the Coca Cola autobus estacion right before the driving afternoon rain.   And off we go on a 4 hr bus to Monteverde and the Cloud Forest.
Cloudforest canopy

Cloudforest canopy

An amazing ride despite the increase in heat and humidity and decrease in ventilation and non existent lighting.   There were some wonderful exotic roadside sodas lit up and decorated with Tbell birds, aka Blue McKaws.   On the bus, we coined the term “the Gringo  Turn”  when you just can´t seem to understand what the cashier is saying to pay in colones, so they deadpan at you and 90 degree turn the register computer so you can actually see the amount.    We went up what seemed like 90000 meters tho it was only 3000 or so feet but there were places I could´have walked up faster than the bus.  And whoa, the lack of roadside rails as we climbed was unnerving.   David met up off the bus, and we quickly realized that Monteverde is way more settled in than we imagined.   The town is hopping with hostels, cabinas, hotels, adventure booking companies, souveneirs store and restaurants galore.  Way tourist-ized.  We walked to Morphos (the Blue Butterfly)  for Thanksgiving dinner.   No turkey.   Devoured ensalada morpho, lomito con queso azul, corvina con salsa aquacate, washed down with vino tinto and some super tasty tres leche cake.    A fine meal to celebrate.   Walked to the discoteque for some tequila and imperials and back to the hostel.   Loud sleepless hot itchy night.
Thanksgiving Corvina con aquacate

Thanksgiving Corvina con aquacate

Thanksgiving Lomito con queso azul

Thanksgiving Lomito con queso azul

Monteverde Hostel room

Monteverde Hostel room

Pura Vida

Tuesday, November 24th, 2009

Galileo Hostel San Jose

Portland to Houston. Houston to San Jose. Costa Rica. And just like that, we´re there.
22 and I found our Galileo home for the first two nights in Central America. A painless trip. A nice welcome. The owner´s birthday and we walk into a sangria celebration. Falafels are our 1st meal. Fell asleep early. 7:30 pm and slept til 7 am, which was impressive despite the booming city traffic and noise. Denali, it is not.
The next day we went into downtown. Got our tickets to Monteverde to meet Oli-son (our Alaskan roomie) and saw some sites, the Nacional Parque and Theatro. Meandered the artisan market and the fruitas market and filled up on some of the richest veges and fruits for a stir fry that night. We upgraded our room in the hostel the next night. Tho on the other side of the building, it was still loud as hell. And we had to be up at the butt crack of dawn to catch our Thanksgiving bus to paradiso.

National Theatre San Jose

National Theatre San Jose

National Museo San Jose

National Museo San Jose

Too big for our bed

Too big for our bed

Flora in Parque Central

Flora in Parque Central

We in Parque Central San Jose

We in Parque Central San Jose